When we checked in to our hotel and stood on the terrace the first thing we noticed was the lighthouse on the opposite side of the bay. It looks like a roughly drawn cartoon from a distance – there’s a square base, a rectangle tower and then a little triangle point on top – all in white outlined in a thick black line.
So today we walked to it.
The path at first was a confusing maze of little tracks that seemed to peter out and then start again without warning. We came close to permanently losing a child along this section. The track was running along a cliff above a beach; far too high above for comfort. I want across a tricky rocky bit first and then helped Cal across, I told him to walk up to a safer bit up ahead and turned to help Declan. Suddenly Cal gasped and I turned to find three-quarters of his body over the cliff – the path was eroded away and the hole had been hidden by a bush. Luckily the erosion had made an angled slope rather than a perpendicular gap so he was lying precariously but not as terrifying dangerously as it first appeared. All was well, but I think I Callum and I both gained a few grey hairs in those seconds.
Anyway safely back on firm land we went on and found lovely coves of deep, pellucid water. The path eventually joined on to a wider track that is used by cyclists and which made for much calmer walking. The local map had shown a simple u-shaped cove with the lighthouse on the other side. That wasn’t actually the case – there are several coves which the path follows round and a lot of going up and down over the ridges. It was a lovely walk though, surrounded by wildflowers, the buzzing of insects and flocks of small birds feeding on the insects. The views of the coast were amazing.
Corsica has a reputation as an unspoilt place. We’ve seen campers, walkers and treckers all over the place. There are many, many people in four-wheel drives or on trail bikes. Interestingly the French seem to favour Landrovers – I can hear my friend Rob sighing from here. This trail was mostly foot and the occasional bike. There were quite a few walkers on our trail but it was by no means busy, we’d meet another walker every thirty minutes or so.
The lighthouse itself was pretty when we arrived; but, as it is occupied, we could not have the picnic we’d planned there. Instead we walked about 30 minutes back down the trail to find a flat spot to eat our provisions.
The walk back was just as pretty as going and a bit faster as we didn’t need to work out where to go. We stopped just over half way in a little restaurant by a beach. This was one of those places in the middle of absolute nowhere where it’s difficult to work out how it makes ends meet. A couple of local beers while watching the waves was just what was needed to recover our energy for the final push back.