Hurdy-Gurdy through time

Every few blocks, and sometimes far more often, you come across a man in a beige uniform playing a hurdy-gurdy. I had to check with the internet that I remembered correctly what a hurdy-gurdy is – “a musical instrument with a droning sound played by turning a handle”. It’s a strident discordant sound that is becoming emblematic of Mexico City in my head.

I spent all this morning in the Museo del Templo Mayor which details what little is left of the major temple that stood in the center of the city until the Spanish came. Once they had control, the Spanish promptly demolished the temple and used the blocks to build more, well Spanish, things. It’s a depressing story, only somewhat moderated by the fact that what the Spanish conquered was itself an empire of other conquered states. The core difference lies in the brutality and the complete disrespect shown by the conquerors.

The one good aspect of the destruction of the Templo Mayor is that it laid bare the way the Mexicas built over earlier temples every few years. The temple when the Spanish arrived hid 6 earlier iterations; something you can now see clearly in the remaining ruins.

The museum is absolutely excellent and – in a move close to my heart – enforces a walk through that develops a story. There are some beautiful artifacts and a whole lot of fascinating information. But there was just no escaping the overwhelming sadness of the story.

Anyway I moved on to see the Casa de Los Azulejos or House of Tiles. As you might expect it’s an 18th Century building richly decorated with tiles. Definitely pretty although it was too ful, for me to have lunch in the restaurant that was a famous meeting place of artists including Kahlo and Rivera.

I moved on for lunch in entirely the opposite direction and went to a local place that got good reviews. It was very local, I ate at a counter between two old people who knew the servers by name and were feasting on the menu del día. I had tacos which were cheap and filling but not a lot more than that. I’m yet to be blown away by Mexican food.

Then it was of the the national art museum which is worth a visit just to walk around the stunning building. The art was interesting, especially watching the evolution from Spanish copyists through to a distinct Mexican style after the Revolution in 1910. Once again Diego Rivera shone – I really feel he’s under-rated because of the shadow cast by Frida Kahlo’s life, more than her art.

I feel like I had a whirlwind tour of Mexico from the Aztec empire through to modern day. It’s all quite discordant and somewhat ugly, but has its own unique flavor. Which is why the hurdy-gurdy is a good emblem for it.