Today we are having a rest in Llogrono. Last night we had pinxos for dinner together with a few glasses of local rioja. The only problem was the local approach to pinxos doesn’t involve sitting down and that’s not the happiest situation with our much-walked-on feet. Food was excellent though, although we remain uncertain about what some of the things we ate actually were.
We spent this morning strolling about the town in clean clothes. Breakfast was in a lovely wood-paneled cafe with excellent coffee. Then we visited the three churches that sit in Llogrono’s old town.
The first church is completely unadorned but was atmospherically hazy with incense. The second had a lot more gold happening and the third was richly appointed and even has a small maybe-Michelangelo painting.
I am not religious so can’t help reading mystery into what is probably something prosaic; maybe I shouldn’t have watched those Tom Hanks movies. As we looked at the huge altarpiece the lights went out and an ancient nun walked up to the middle of the alter, produced a big key and unlocked an unobtrusive cupboard hidden behind a gilded painting. She proceeded to do something in the cupboard to some shrouded objects, then locked the door, and walked away – then the lights came back on.
Apart from visiting churches we strolled about and did some shopping. Jennifer had broken her glasses and so we got some new ones – which was a bit of a stretch of my Spanish vocabulary. I had managed to lose a sock (in decades of traveling I think that’s the first thing I’ve ever lost) in our washing efforts and so had to find a replacement pair. Trying out new socks on the Camino without a safety net is going to be an adventure. (Addendum: I found the sock, so I am, you will be thrilled to hear, back my unbroken record, and have extra socks.)
We had a fabulous long lunch. I just adore the way that once you sit down at a table in Spain, you can take as long as you like to eat and watch the world go by. There’s an awful lot to be said for a country with cheap food and drinks, friendly people, and a relaxed attitude to lunch.