Doorways

I should start by explaining that Morocco is unseasonably cold at the moment. This is Winter but the locals are all saying it shouldn’t be this cold. So we had breakfast wearing puffy jackets and rather regretting sending our warmest clothes home with Minerva. But the day has been clear and, when you’re in the Sun, not unpleasant. It has made me slightly jealous of the locals in their wool djellabas – which not only look warm, but make the whole place look like a fantasy film as they wander the streets with their pointed hoods up.

Today was really about orientation. We had a tour of the main spots of Marrakech. The Majorelle Garden was first. This hugely popular spot was pretty enough; but as its major claims to fame are plants from five continents and having been owned by Yves St Laurent it didn’t really give a sense of place.

Koutoubia Mosque came closer to feeling local. Built in the 11th century it’s been a functioning mosque pretty much continuously ever since. It was the template for others including the tower in Seville which we got to climb up a couple of years ago.

A real sense of place came with wandering the souks of the Medina. Endless tiny alleys with stalls – the stall holders poised to bargain – interspaced with exotic doorways. Our guide was quick to warn that the bulk of the goods on sale were made in China, but they all looked colourful and exotic.

The souks disgorged us into the  Jemaa El Fna Square where snake charmers and monkey handlers showed off their skills at fleecing tourists.

The pretty Bahia Palace was our last stop. 

This evening we returned to the square to watch the sunset from a balcony. The snake charmers are sending up a cacaphonous serenade while food stalls get ready for nighttime business. The cool thing about the square, and the reason it’s World Heritage listed, is that this has been like this forever – maybe some extra LED lights and electricity, but essentially the same.

After dinner on another balcony – everything here is designed for warm weather – we wandered back to the riad via little streets and archways. Marrakech really feels exotic and different in a truly wonderful way.