San Gimignano – fact or fiction

This is my third time in San Gimignano; but, given the last two were about 40 years ago, things have changed. In fact, the last time, Jennifer and I came together and had to pretend to be married so that nuns would lets us have a room in a monastery. (I would say I have, ever since, been consumed by guilt about lying to nuns so I could share a bed with my girlfriend out of wedlock – but I walked the Camino and got a certificate that gives me a pass for all such indiscretions!)

The walk today was again mostly lovely. The problem with walking between hilltop towns is, of course, that they are all on, well, hilltops. So today started with us giving up all the height we’d gained yesterday and ended up with another climb which we will inevitably give up tomorrow. But for all that the height comes with wonderful views. The only real fly in the ointment today was the last few kilometers walking alongside, or on, a road populated with Italian drivers driving like Italians.

Our priority on arriving in San Gimignano was, in order, a drink, some food, and gelato. The town is home to the world’s best gelato (said by people who know their gelato) – and I have to admit it was extremely good.

San Gimignano is, according to UNESCO, one of the best preserved mediaeval villages in Europe. When Italy unified the town became a symbol of a mythologised mediaeval life – and the locals removed the frills that had been added over the centuries (plaster from the walls for example). So, today, the town looks more like it did in 1400 than it did in 1700. Is that real? That seems to me to be the continual debate of changing development – when do you crystallise it. A good topic for discussion over a glass of local wine and bruschetta.