In theory the first 17km out of Carion de Los Condes is a waterless wasteland. In preparation for that we had gone supermarket shopping last night and bought some fruit for breakfast and the makings for a bocadillo for lunch.
As it turned out the trail was pretty nice and we hit a food truck about 10km in. Not only was the food truck a welcome sight, but it actually had good coffee and freshly squeezed juice. Civilization is a good breakfast in the middle of nowhere.
At 17km we got another coffee and juice in a bar and now feeling tip-top we decided to take a slightly longer diversion off the Camino. The diversion was excellent both because it took us away from a road and because it took us into truly the middle of nowhere with no other walkers and complete silence broken only by flies and birds. It was a bit of a tougher walk but completely worth it.
One of the noticeable things about walking through the Spanish countryside is that there are no farmhouses. Everyone lives in the towns, so there’s nothing to break the fields.
We think we almost halfway now. It’s very hard to tell. There are signs with the distance to Santiago, but the numbers jump about all over the place. If we aren’t halfway now we will be tomorrow.
Tonight we’re staying in what has so far proved a lovely albergue (we have our own room, not a bunk-bed in a dorm) and we’ve already done a load of washing and had a great raspberry smoothly on the terrace. Tough life.